![]() This protects her eye, which would otherwise have been affected by the first control point. But then I also added a control point with no effect right on her eye. You’ll see that I’ve added a control point to the eyelashes and brightened it just a little. A quick Control Point added to those and brightened up a bit will fix that easily. The darkness of her eyelashes are still a bit too much though. It even brings her eyes up a bit - it’s a pretty great all-in-one adjustment! Not only does it amplify her blouse, but it also brings out details in her hair, setting it against the background quite nicely. On this photo, a little bit of Detail Extraction actually benefits it greatly. You’ll see that her eyes are a little too dark, so we’ll fix that next. For the photo I’m workin with, the #2 preset in the middle row works out quite well. You really just have to click through them and see what looks best for your particular photo. This adjustment doesn’t offer much guidance on what you’ll get with each option. Therefore, start here, and then make adjustments afterwards. So if you start by adjusting exposure or curves or vignetting, you may end up negating those with the film type. The Film Type adjustments have a lot of effects built into them already. It also gives us an easy way to “reset” the image without having to go back and manually adjust a bunch of settings to neutral. This allows us to add effects, instead of takin them away. Start by selecting that to load up a basic B&W conversion. Now, it’s time to continue to explore Nik Collection ‘s editing processes to make the most creative silver halide print! ![]() In part 1 of this article, we explored what a Silver Halide print is, how to prepare a file in Adobe Photoshop for Analog Efex Pro, and how to create a neutral B&W starting point in the filter. ![]()
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